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What we do...and some caveats!

Our process schedule depends on whether your tank is simply corroded, whether it is leaking or whether it has, at some point, been lined (probably because it was leaking!).

We will discuss with you the work to be undertaken and we keep in contact with you throughout the process.

The first stage that we undertake with a leak-free tank, following our discussions with you, is to alkaline clean it to ensure that all additives are removed. The next stage is to de-rust the interior of the tank and apply a phosphate coating to ensure a successful bond with the tank lining material. 

PLEASE NOTE: The liner that we use is not designed to fill up holes; if there are perforations in the tank, we will need to weld it. If there is an existing liner, it will have to be physically removed. Both of these processes require the tank to undergo rather more aggressive treatment and may result in the loss of, or damage to, existing paintwork. Again, we will discuss this with you in detail. 
 

Once the tank has been prepared for lining, and is in a completely corrosion-free state, we will then apply a double coat of our E10-resistant lining material (Fertan Tapox TX10) and cure the tank to achieve a secure bond. We then inspect the tank internally for continuity of coating and prepare it for delivery or collection.
 

In an ideal world, your tank would have no exterior finish on it at all before we begin the lining process - however, we know that this is not always possible and while every effort is made to ensure that any exterior finish on the tank is preserved, this is totally dependent on the quality of the paint or chrome finish in place and the degree of handling required. We do try very hard to reduce any scratching to the finish and in any case, the majority of these can be buffed out once the tank has fully-cured. Please see our FAQs
 

It is possible that older tanks may have a cellulose paint finish - this will present us with a problem at the initial stage, as the paintwork is solvent-wiped to remove any extraneous unidentifiable material such as touch-up paints, adhesives, and localised 'home repairs' (e.g.single pack aerosols). Please bring any concerns to our attention during our initial discussions.
Also, please note that we are unable to accept responsibility for damage to the tank on its return to you by courier as it is not possible to insure the consignment.

PLEASE DO NOT SEND YOUR TANK TO US COMPLETE WITH ITS FILLER CAP, BADGES, TAPS, OR ANY OTHER ASSOCIATED BITS AND PIECES! We're sure that they are very nice but all that we need is your tank! 

BEFORE SHIPPING: Please ensure that your tank is completely drained of fuel and has been 'aired' so that no trace of petrol smell remains.

PLEASE ENSURE THAT YOU SHIP YOUR TANK IN A VERY STURDY BOX WITH PLENTY OF PACKING MATERIAL TO PROTECT IT IN TRANSIT.
However, do be aware that bubble wrap, in combination with moisture and even minor petrol fumes, will soften your paintwork and leave its mark, so that the tank will appear to have been embraced by an octopus! THIS IS, UNFORTUNATELY, A PERMANENT EFFECT.


Please ensure that you have read the above carefully. as you will be asked to acknowledge that you accept these conditions before we commence work on your tank. For further information, PLEASE READ OUR FAQs

If you are rebuilding a bike, it is highly recommended that the lining work is carried out before commissioning a new paint job on the tank. 

PLEASE NOTE: We will not undertake crash repairs under any circumstances.

Our turnround time at present is four to six weeks for the above process. Clearly if the tank requires welding and/or the removal of an old liner, the turnround is likely to be extended to achieve the desired results.

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